basic structure of novelty yarn

Shetland yarn: The 2-ply yarn used for sweaters. Novelty Yarn comes in a variety of colors and textures and add interest to a knitted garment. This type of yarn provides a unique surface texture to the fabric made from the yarns similar to that of linen fabrics. The development of fancy yarns represents a model example of how a market can be dynamically stimulated using creative ideas that can attract consumers and draw attention to the products with minimum added cost. Yarn producers or spinners buy in natural and/or man-made fibres to make these into yarns of different sizes and characters; regular and fancy yarns. The part of the loom that controls the basic fabric structure is the A. shuttle. (Fig. In general, there are three basic classifications. Examples of fancy yarns [4,7,18]. It is composed of two 1/1 ribs interlocked together with crossed sinker wales (Figure 1 a). THOMANNY, U. I.; ERMANNI, P.: The influence of yarn structure and processing conditions on the laminate quality of stampformed carbon and thermoplastic polymer fiber commingled yarns. Grain: runs the length of the fabric. Sadhan Chandra Ray, in Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology, 2012. By combining fibre types, and using different spinning systems and machinery, yarns can be developed with individual profiles suitable for a vast range of end uses. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies, and bedspreads. Typical fancy yarns include snarl, spiral, loop, chenille, slub and nep. Other articles where Novelty yarn is discussed: textile: Novelty yarns: Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs, produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and synthetic yarns with varying thickness introduced during production. B. harness. When this situation is reversed (i.e. The production efficiency of these types of threads when applied in modern production techniques (hollow spindle) is very high, and could even reach 200 m/minute (meters per minute), in comparison with the classical method (ring twisters method), reaching 15 m/minute at most. The thread is also less flexible. Similarly, which is the novelty yarn? When this situation is reversed (i.e., a soft and bulky strand spiraling around a fine strand), the yarn is commonly called a spiral fancy yarn. Did you scroll all this way to get facts about novelty yarn? The fancy or effect 3. Classification of yarn according to structure: Continuous filament yarn Staple yarn Core spun yarn Novelty yarn Stretch yarn High bulk yarn 7. Fancy yarns have wide-ranging application in apparel at all levels of the market. Jul 15, 2020 - Explore Martha Vickery's board "Novelty Yarn Patterns" on Pinterest. This type of yarns provides a unique surface texture to the fabric made from the yarns similar to that of linen fabrics. Fancy effects can also be created by changing fibre specifications such as type, length, denier, cross-sectional shape, crimp, initial modulus, colour, lustre, affinity for dyes and shrinkage, etc. effect strand. 9.6F–H, respectively, have dramatic effect strands [4,18]. Here the effective thread is braided on the base of one core with a big surplus, which creates the loops. It is possible to produce a wide range of yarn structures with fancy appearance using inbuilt programs that control the servo motors in ring spinning. Many fancy yarns are produced using a conventional staple-fiber spinning systems equipped with special accessories. Under the category of the structure of chenille threads, there are two sub-groups – chenille threads with flush pile (i.e. D. shed. This thread belongs to the group of fancy threads with continuous effects – it is wavy thread produced on a base of weft knit fabrics. Novelty or fancy yarn 11. The fancy effect yarn 3. This simple, crew-neck, drop-shoulder, bottom-up, seamed cardigan can be worked in any gauge with any weight yarn, though it’s shown here in a worsted weight. Computer-aided designing and manufacturing in knitting have made it possible to manufacture any desired structure within a short time at reasonable price. They both have an effect strand that lies closer to the core strand than is typical in boucle and loop [4]. The evaporation of the ready yarn produces a wavy effect in the fancy thread. In loop yarns, the effect strand is usually made of long, rigid fibers that may also be lustrous, such as mohair or wool, or untwisted thick filament strand. Texturized yarns made exclusively from continuous filaments can also be considered as a form of fancy yarn. In this way, we can also create a rainbow effect on the yarn. In both boucle and loop yarns, the binder strand is necessary to hold the loops in place. Various fancys By definition, fancy yarns are any type of yarn with a deliberate interruption or discontinuity in color or form. All textile yarn is classified according to structure, or how they are made. (of a fabric or garment) having a pattern or design produced by a novelty weave. Spiral = Mock spiral, mouliné, jaspé, Gimp = Frisé, caterpillar, ondé, Slub = Ground slub, injected slub, injected flame (also called tear-off flame), Knop = Knot, nep, noppé, button, reverse caterpillar, flake, Loop = Bouclé, frotté, prong, mock-spun chenille, Chenille = Woven chenille, plied chenille, Figure-2: Structure of fancy yarns with type of effects, Yarn not found available or yarn delivery is delay, Fancy Yarn | Types and Classification of Fancy Yarns | Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn, Basic Parts of Sewing Machine and Its Function, Step by Step Fashion Design Development Process, Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. The way that fibers are spun and twisted determines a yarn’s structure. The idea of a compound fancy yarn is to combine two or three strands together so that one of them acts as the fancy or effect strand, another acts as the yarn core and perhaps a third one acts as a binder to secure the effect strand to the core strand. Download . The effect is composed of tufts of yarn held between plied yarns that form the core of the chenille yarn. Currently, customers of fancy yarn are especially interested in KDK thread (Knitt de Knitt). Based on the purpose, each strand is referred to as base/core, effect, or binder. Many fancy yarns are produced using conventional staple-fiber spinning systems equipped with special accessories. styles and designs can be changed rapidly. Wrapping Up ... Doubleweave is a fascinating and versatile structure. Generally, this yarn involves a strand or two of "normal" yarn combined, often by twisting, with something else to create a more interesting color pattern or texture. The component thread, which is fed at a higher tension, will form the core, and the thread fed with a lower tension will be wound round the core and will form a continuous wavy structure. Simple yarns consist of single or plied yarns that are uniform in size, smooth and have an equal number of twists and turns along the strand. Similarly, a blend of fibres having varying shrinkage when combined with colour difference can also give fancy effects. The twist of the effect strand is usually in the same direction as the twist that holds the effect and core strands; the binder strand is usually twisted in the opposite direction [4]. yarn manufacturing plant, numerous bales are used in a lay-down to further blend out variation. They are made of artificial yarn blends and provide texture. They add interest to any knitted garment. Typically, slubs are randomly and irregularly spaced along the yarn axis. Of the major fibers, rayon is the least likely to be Used in the handmade yarn business. S-twist. Textured and many other fancy yarns can easily be knitted and converted to light weight fashion garments. Of the major fibers, rayon is the least likely to be Used in the hand made yarn business. As noted from the definition most fancy yarns are either single or plied. There is a wide variety of novelty yarns that are produced using different techniques and … Where once the extreme complexity and difficulty of making and using fancy yarns inhibited their production in sufficient quantity or at a low enough price for the mass market, improved process control has now greatly extended their market penetration. Manufacture of fancy yarns often involves plying and cabling together different yarns of varying counts and twists. If the direction of twist in the component yarns is kept different, the plying operation will produce an unbalanced twisted spiral yarn. TEXTILE SPINNING Textile Technology knowledge series Volume II TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS APRIL 21, 2019 Fancy yarns can be created by deliberately introducing irregularities or intermittent effects along their length. Chenille yarns are usually made from cotton, wool, rayon, or polyester and are used in fabrics that are soft and velvety. Figure-6: Gimp yarn: Although it is common to overfeed the effect in the first twisting stage, this is not essential. The core strand in loop yarns is usually coarser and heavier than in boucle yarns. 13.4. Fancy or novelty yarns are of decorative purpose. 2002, Petrulytė and Petrulis 2004). A thick and thin yarn is typically a multifilament yarn in which diameter variations are deliberately induced via variation in the filament flow rate through the spinneret during extrusion. The part of the loom through which the filling yarn is inserted is the A. shuttle. All the yarns listed may be found in any fiber. Unfortunately, the introduction of thermoplastic thread to the structure of chenille raises the price of the yarn and only a few producers of chenille thread can afford to adopt such an innovation. Rengasamy, in Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, 2010. 6.1). It is also produced on a knitting base – i.e. Fancy yarns are generally produced by the irregular plying of staple fibre or continuous filaments and are characterised by the presence of abrupt and periodic effects. Labour compliment requirement is less in knitting; hence problems related to labour are less. In weaving, the warp, or lengthwise, yarns are subjected to greater stress and are usually stronger, smoother, and more even and have tighter twist than the weft, or crosswise, yarns. In this method, it is recommended that raw materials with shrinkage properties (such as PAN or filament man-made fiber) are used in order to obtain the desired effect. 4,7,15 Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. The development of fancy yarns represents a model example of how a market can be dynamically stimulated using creative ideas that can attract consumers and draw attentions to the products at minimum added costs. Classification according to their structure; The yarn may be divided into three types according to their structure. A return to our classic Basics line, this time for crochet! Moreover, the requirement to match the twist of base thread is reached at the weft knit fabric manufacturing stage. The hollow spindle method is one of the four methods, together with ring spinning, the combined system and the chenille method, for production of fancy yarns (Gong et al. Under conditions of steam and high temperature, a thin filament thread with the heat-shrinkage property can tend to get inside the yarn core and modify the structure of the smooth thread. Ply Yarns are Ratine, Spiral, Knot, Snarl and Boucle. Classification of Woven Fabrics. These threads are rich in design effects but have low usage parameters. strand that provides structure and strength. In addition, the possibility of using a wide range of fibers including low quality fibers and a variety of fiber wastes also adds to the overall reduction in manufacturing cost [1]. There is currently a tendency towards making combinations of various types of fancy threads in various structural systems. Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. For example, fancy yarns being a result of induced irregularities and discontinuities require quality constraints and testing procedures that are much less than those implemented for traditional yarns. It is also observed that the loops of frotte-type threads differ from those of boucle-type threads. 9.6f, 9.6g, and 9.6h, respectively, have dramatic effect strands.4,15 The effect strand in boucle yarns is usually the softest and bulkiest of this group and, typically, does not lie near the core strand. Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, or ropemaking. The introduction of a heat shrinkage thread to the structure of the fancy thread has been used in the production of chenille threads using the hollow spindle method. Loop yarns are frequently used in coating and suiting fabrics, for interior furnishings and for speciality fabrics, either knit or woven. For example, fancy yarns that are a result of induced irregularities and discontinuities require quality constraints and testing procedures that are much less than those implemented for traditional yarns. Boucle, loop, and snarl yarns shown in Fig. Selvedge: The weft yarns are wrapped around the warp yarns to create an edge to the fabric, known as the Selvedge. The machine is fully automated so requires no change of gears to modify draft, twist and speed. The density (tpi) and direction of twist (S/Z) are often manipulated during plying and cabling so as to create particular effects. In the context of design, it is important to point out that in addition to the deliberate irregularities induced in fancy yarns, fiber strands of different physical characteristics can also be used to make fancy yarns [4,7]. Cor-respondingly, the warp and weft densities were arrived at 53 and 33/cm respectively. A snarl yarn uses a twist-lively strand to form the projecting snarls. In both boucle and loop yarns, the binder strand is necessary to hold the loops in place [4]. Slub yarns are made by uneven twisting of yarns creating thick and thin areas. e.g. 4 Figure 2 - Textured Filament Yarn. The differences in the appearance of the various yarns are largely dependent on the extent of prominence of the effect strand. Chenille yarns are also used in knit fabrics for the purpose of making bulky sweater knits. Fig. Effect . From chain stitch to couching, thread a needle and create beautiful needlework with your handspun. binder strand . Fancy yarns are made with a distinctive irregular profile which is different from basic single and folded yarns. It is built on a base of two core threads and one effective thread, which creates the loops on the surface. 9.6J) resemble a caterpillar, hence the derivation of their name from the French word chenille, which means caterpillar [4]. flat chenille threads) and cylindrical chenille threads, where the pile is distributed regularly and spatially around the longitudinal axis. Binder yarns which are used in novelty-type yarns, such as bouclé yarns, to hold the loops, or in fancy/effect yarns to the core or base, are also considered as a reinforcement yarn. Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist fancy spinners, using machines modified or developed for the purpose. It differs in texture from normal double yarn. This weave is achieved by ‘floating’ the warp or weft yarn over four or more of the opposite yarn. 9.6C typically has a fine strand spiraling around a soft and bulky strand. 9.6c to 9.6j are listed in the order of their prominence if they are visualized side-by-side in a piece of fabric. - The effect strand creates decorative detail such as knots and loops. Figure 1 b shows the structure of interlock. A combination of both can produce slub/fancy yarns. - The base/core strand provides the structure and strength. Typically, slubs are randomly and irregularly spaced along the yarn axis. The fasciated structure of bouclé yarns made by using a hollow spindle machine. Let's look at each of them. Plied yarns are produced by twisting two or more single yarns. Boucle, loop and snarl yarns, shown in Fig. These yarns can be produced using a wide range of accessories attached to commercial spinning machines. harness. Cotton is the most important of the raw materials for the textile industry. Knitted garments have very good demand in export market. The floating yarn is then passed under one of the opposite yarn before repeating the process again. Key structural parameters associated with slub yarns include the following: slub size with respect to yarn diameter, slub length, and slub spacing or frequency. 9.6A and B represents two examples of the first type of fancy yarns, namely, slub yarns and thick and thin yarns. Nub and slash yarns have the effect strand twisted around the core strand a number of times in a small area to form an enlarged bump or “nub.” A binder strand may or may not be used. Bouclé: This highly bumpy, textured yarn is composed of loops. 6. … A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. In fact, it is possible to use natural raw materials, such as cotton, but the thermal-stabilization process must then be optimized and the parameters of this process must be matched for natural fibers. Seamless garments can directly be made in knitting. By continuing you agree to the use of cookies. Fancy yarns produced by using hollow spindle machines have a similar look to yarns produced with ring twisting and the combined system, but their structure and properties are different. The little girl in me conjures up visions of tutus, castles and lace. Academia.edu is a platform for academics to share research papers. Knitting is more flexible than weaving, i.e. Types of Neckties | How to Wear Men’s Tie or Neckwear to Fashion. 1. R. Wright, in Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures, 2011. A snarl yarn uses a twist-lively strand to form the projecting snarls. As an adult who's crochet crazy, the idea of fancy yarns delights me. R.S. A typical novelty yarn has three basic parts: 1.The ground or foundation or core. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories [4,7,18]: monofancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. 9.6. The chenille threads are usually imported from Italy. Narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn. Novelty yarn: Definition. consists of two or more strands of fibers held together by twist or some other mechanism ... narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn: Term. You guessed it: blue. Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. They may also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with strong support, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect (Gong & Wright, 2002). They are made by introducing spiral forms of irregularity or hairiness into either spun continuous filament yarn. This technique has an efficiency of 18 m/minute and makes it possible to produce round chenille threads with various lengths of pile along the yarn. that ties the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary. ), and the core-effect arrangement used [7,18]. In addition, the importance of stimulating and attracting consumers was addressed. A thick-and-thin yarn is typically a multifilament yarn in which diameter variations are deliberately induced by variation in the filament flow rate through the spinneret during extrusion. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies and bedspreads. The softness of chenille yarns makes them vulnerable to rubbing; consequently, fabrics containing them do not wear well because of a low abrasion resistance.4,15 Chenille yarns are used as crosswise yarns in a woven fabric to create a velvet-like surface or occasionally placed in the filling to add surface effects. The common kinds of novelty yarns are: Chenille-It is smooth and velvety and can be tricky to work with. See more ideas about Novelty yarn, Yarn, Ribbon yarn. Satin weave creates a super smooth fabric that has a soft hand and drapes well. The former are made from a single staple-fiber strand or multifilament yarn in which irregularities are introduced during the conversion from fibers to yarns; the latter consist of two or more fiber strands used to provide the desired combined effects. We use cookies to help provide and enhance our service and tailor content and ads. Time required to get an order executed is less than weaving. In terms of high production efficiency, the current most popular method of producing chenille threads is one based on twisting with the use of a hollow spindle. Varying widths and colors, laddering, twists and curls define this category of wonderfully unique yarns. - The base/core strand provides the structure and strength. Another term for a fancy yarn. Compound fancy yarns can be found in an unlimited number of varieties and textures. Examples of how to use “novelty yarn” in a sentence from the Cambridge Dictionary Labs E. Mielicka, in Advances in Knitting Technology, 2011. S-twist: Definition. Both the appearance is the same on both sides. covered by . C. reed. The same effect can be obtained through the use of extreme differences in tension on the ring twister frame or hollow spindle during the manufacturing process. Classification of yarn according to structure: Continuous filament yarn Staple yarn Core spun yarn Novelty yarn Stretch yarn High bulk yarn 7. The end uses include cover a broad range starting from The binder strand is usually small and is often not readily visible. Another member of the group of threads with continuous effect is loop-thread. 5. Indeed, most fancy yarns merely represent random effects introduced to the traditional yarns using simple accessories mounted on conventional spinning machinery such as ring spinning or rotor spinning [7]. Fancy yarns are produced with a multiplicity of structural features but the structure of a fancy yarn may be considered in terms of the following three basic components (Fig. The most common novelty yarn material is wool. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities, and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being the production of enhanced aesthetic and fashionable impressions [4,7,18]. Chenille yarns (Fig. In addition, the possibility of using a wide range of fibers including low quality fibers and a variety of fiber wastes also adds to the overall reduction in manufacturing cost. Yehia E. Elmogahzy, in Engineering Textiles (Second Edition), 2020. Novelty: Novelty yarns are easy to recognize because their appearance is so different from traditional yarns: Ribbon: A knitted ribbon in rayon or a rayon blend. Regular yarns are those which have a regular straight profile and these can be twisted together, making ‘two-fold’ or ‘three-fold’ yarns for example. Bouclé- Bumpy and loopy. KNIT Which of these stitches is used to create color effects or structural designs? [getWidget results="3" label="recent" type="list"]. The term fancy, complex and novelty are considered synonymous. … Sports yarn: The 3-ply yarn used for socks, sweaters, and hats. KEYWORDS: Fancy Yarn Quality & Fancy Yarn Structure INTRODUCTION Fancy yarns, or novelty yarns, are defined by as “special products of carding, drawing, Dref spinning, rotor Made of synthetic fibers these yarn blends, novelty yarns provide texture and interest. Lang Kylie is a unique natural fiber yarn with a subtle thick and thin bouclé structure. effect filament. 2002). The classical ring system for production of fancy yarns includes two stages. It should be pointed out that some fabric is called ‘chenille’ even though it does not contain chenille yarns. Single yarns include spun, monofilament, and multifilament yarns. strand that creates decorative details, knots, or loops. If you're striving for the smoothest, most even worsted or the loftiest woolen yarn, stopping to add in locks without drafting them or even tossing some commercial yarn into the mix may seem like a distraction. Frotte threads are characterized by low resistance in comparison with boucle-type threads. 9.6D and E) exhibit a slightly wavy appearance. The second stage involves the twisting of the binder around the first two components, thus fixing the effects and giving additional strength to the final yarn. They both have an effect strand that lies closer to the core strand than is typical in boucle and loop.4. Others are produced using a special spinning preparation in which blends of various fiber colors or fiber types that form fancy slivers are used. Novelty bulky yarns may make the fabric hard to handle. A woven fabric with a count of 144 X 76 A. is unbalanced. Capital investment for starting a new knitting unit is less than that required for other fabric-producing industries. The effect is composed of tufts of yarn held between plied yarns that form the core of the chenille yarn. fWHAT ARE NOVELTY YARNS? These yarns … This profile enhances the visual and textural properties of the fabric. Structure of spiral or corkscrew yarn. Modern knitting machines, particularly warp knitting machines can produce various types of technical textiles (medical textiles, automobile textiles, geo-textiles, etc.). Chenille yarns are used as crosswise yarns in a woven fabric to create a velvet-like surface or occasionally placed in the filling to add surface effects. E. batten. At its simplest, yarn production is essentially about taking fibres, organising them so that they lie in a lengthways direction and twisting them to create a yarn. This explains why it has a greater bending stiffness and a lower ability to form waves. For example, the corkscrew yarn shown in Fig. Yarns are grouped into simple and novelty (specialty) yarns. In this case, the thermoplastic core of the chenille thread is inserted in order to strengthen the hairy effect of the chenille thread and to prevent fibering off during processing on knitting machines and also during the use of knitted goods. 9.6j) resemble a caterpillar, hence the derivation of their name from the French word chenille, which means caterpillar. Both gimp and ratiné yarns (Fig. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. For example, the corkscrew yarn shown in Fig. An example is boucle yarn, formed by allowing one yarn to form loops around a core or central yarn, while a third yarn holds or binds these two yarns together. This is one type of novelty yarn. 3.0 Staple Spinning Systems 3.1 Ring Spun Yarns The processing of a cotton ring spun yarn must go through a carding machine. Corkscrew, spiral, chenille, gimp, loop, snarl and boucle have all found acceptance in apparels and for the production of furnishings and upholstery. It should be pointed out that some fabric is called “chenille” even though it does not contain chenille yarns. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories:4,7,15 mono-fancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. Novelty yarns like spike yarns are also being used in making soft toys. Yarns made under the air jet spinning method are of this structure. Video Lesson: Twill Gamps. According to the classification, depending on the structure of the thread, there are fancy threads with continuous effects and point effects. See more. Vigurex printing can be done on the tape of staple fiber, followed by a process of elongation and twisting. Flat thread is produced using a weaving method based on plain or gauze weave with a very low production efficiency. In these types of threads the pattern-effect of the yarn is applied to the whole length of the thread. Such combinations cause the price of thread to rise considerably, and dramatically increase the linear density of thread. The former is made from a single staple-fiber strand or multifilament yarn in which irregularities are introduced during the conversion from fibers to yarns; the latter consist of two or more fiber strands used to provide desired combined effects. another term for a fancy yarn: Term. Boucle yarns are found in both woven and knit fabrics that are often called boucle fabrics. The binder strand is usually small and is often not readily visible. At present, these threads are mostly found in the textile industry and are known not to generate problems during the manufacturing process or subsequent processing. It is a platform to express your knowledge throughout the world. D. shed. Manufactured By a solution in … harness. Basic/Simple Weaves; Compound/Complex/Novelty … Novelty yarns are classified according to the single or ply structure: Single yarns are Tweed and Slub Yarns. These fabrics are stretchable, soft and quick to recover from wrinkles, unlike, woven fabrics knitted fabrics would not become stiff or board even if you make it heavy. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. Novelty effects in fabrics are in large part a result of selection of novelty yarns for incorporation into fabrics made in one of the basic weaves. Natural fibres, including some linens, wools to be woven… Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. A typical novelty yarn has three basic parts: 1.The ground or foundation or core. Metallic fibers will give you and your work special sparkle. Key structural parameters associated with slub yarns include slub size with respect to yarn diameter, slub length and slub spacing or frequency. a soft and bulky strand spiraling around a fine strand), the yarn is commonly called a spiral fancy yarn. The effect is achieved through the continuous and smooth twisting of many component multi-colored threads. Others are produced using special spinning preparation in which blends of various fiber colors or fiber types forming fancy slivers are used. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure, or fiber composition. The binder. The most popular color? Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament yarns are the simplest in the structure. 9.6d and 9.6e) exhibit a slightly wavy appearance. Fancy Yarn: Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. (of yarn) having irregularities within the fibrous structure. The basic twill types: straight, point, extended point, and broken twills; ... Twill with Novelty Yarn. The binder is, in general, a filament, which is wound onto the pirn, placed on the hollow spindle. (of a weave) consisting of a combination of basic weaves. and the core-effect arrangement used.7,15 The compound fancy yarns shown in Fig. No yarn preparatory machinery is required in weft knitting and only warping is needed in warp knitting. Fashion or novelty yarn: Any novelty structure. -The binder is used to tie the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary. As well as changing the appearance of a fabric, the introduction of a fancy yarn will affect the handle and performance of that fabric. The base or core yarn 2. o. Binder . Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine.Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. base strand . Hollow spindle spinning gives the possibility of integrating the two stages of the traditional ring system into one. They differ from simple yarns that their structure is characterized by irregularities. Ply yarn: Definition. Novelty yarn. This weave can be made on a loom with only two harnesses. Slub yarn is basically a spun yarn (ring- or rotor-spun yarn) in which thickness variations are deliberately induced via variation in yarn twist combined with a control of fiber feed so that thick areas will exhibit lower twist than thin areas. A binder strand may or may not be used. In order to improve the design potential in this group of yarns, new heat-shrinkable components are inserted at the last stage of the production process. Types of fancy yarn are classified according to their structure as well as the method of manufacturing. For increased lustre, fibres with a flat cross-section, such as trilobal and ribbon-shaped yarns, are often employed. Single yarn/staple fiber yarn / spun yarn. 1 . Loop yarns are frequently used in coating and suiting fabrics, for interior furnishings and for specialty fabrics, either knit or woven [4]. In both yarns, the effect strand is twisted around the core strand, but ratiné yarns are usually larger and wavier than gimp yarns owing to a larger effect strand. Slubs of varying dimensions can be produced by using differential fibre length in the core and effect components. The most common types of novelty yarn are bouclé yarn, Single yarn, the simplest type of yarn, is commonly produced by twisting together staple or filament fibers. B. has twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament yarns are the simplest in the structure. Novelty yarns are often weak and have poor abrasion resistance. Differences in individual yarn fineness is employed to make corkscrew and spiral yarns. A slub yarn is basically a spun yarn (ring or rotor-spun yarn) in which thickness variations are deliberately induced by variation in the yarn twist combined with control of the fiber feed so that thick areas will exhibit lower twist than thin areas. Fancy yarns produced by using hollow spindle machines have a similar look to yarns produced with ring twisting and the combined system, but their structure and properties are different. The differences in the appearance of the various yarns are largely dependent on the extent of prominence of the effect strand. Y.E. Such types of threads are produced by the Polish spinning industry. In the context of design, it is important to point out that in addition to the deliberate irregularities induced in fancy yarns, fiber strands with different physical characteristics can also be used to make fancy yarns. Novelty yarns are created by special spinning, twisting or combining these processes. Cotton melange yarn has been highly successful in enhancing the appeal of knitted garments such as T-shirts, etc. The idea of a compound fancy yarn is to combine two or three strands together so that one of them acts as the fancy or effect strand, another acts as the yarn core, and perhaps the third one acts as a binder to secure the effect strand to the core strand. Developments in spinning, however, have led to new spinning systems including ‘open-end’, ‘self-twist’ and ‘jet’ spinning. Fashion or novelty yarn: Any novelty structure. There can be endless variety of novelty yarns. Chenille yarns (Fig. 13.3). An example of this is frotte-type thread produced with a core made of PAN, joined with effective thread such as chenille, which creates the loop. chenille yarn, loop yarn, slub yarn, snarl yarn. The compound fancy yarns shown in Fig. Basic interlock knitted structure is a double 1/1 rib fabric (Figure 1 a, b). Advanced Yarn Manufacturing Azmir Latif, MSc in TE Figure 9: Structure of Slub Yarn Fasciated Yarn Fasciated yarn is a staple fiber yarn that consists of a core of a parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. - The effect strand creates decorative detail such as knots and loops. Soft and slightly tweedy, Kylie will make pullovers, cardigans, and wraps that are perfect to wear as the weather warms up. Similarly to the ring system, the production of a fancy yarn with a hollow spindle requires three different components: core, effect and binder. Ply yarn. Both gimp and ratiné yarns (Fig. Fancy yarns are also termed novelty yarns, specialty yarns, effect yarns and fashion-oriented yarns, and can incorporate deliberate ‘defects’ or variations distributed randomly or in a pre-defined order, along with colour to give visually and texturally attractive difference to the fabric. The following examples belong to the groups of threads with continuous effects: wavy threads, spiral threads, loop threads (boucle, frotte) and chenille threads. Many novelty yarns are composed of: o. Base/core . Devices used to create these types of yarn have been available since the 19th century. Thus, the core and the effect components pass through a roller drafting unit (though having different paths) and enter the axial inlet of the hollow spindle. In a slash yarn, the enlarged area is longer and thinner than in a nub yarn [4]. In loop yarns, the effect strand is usually made of long, rigid fibers that may also be lustrous, such as mohair or wool or untwisted thick filament strand. The effect strand in boucle yarns is usually the softest and bulkiest of this group and, typically, does not lie near the core strand. A blend of cotton, silk, wool, and viscose, this yarn will add texture to knit and crochet projects. Carry along feathers, loops or eyelash yarns to create new textures and bring drama to your garments. R. Alagirusamy, A. Das, in Textiles and Fashion, 2015. The thread does not create problems during processing due to the selection of optimal raw materials. Novelty yarn is a relatively new trend that has enabled a variety of new looks for knitters who prefer to depart from traditional yarn. A combination of both can produce slub/, Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. Additionally, what is fancy yarn in textile? See more ideas about novelty yarn, yarn necklace, yarn. having or displaying novelties: novelty … Novelty yarns are available in different types of colors and textures. This group contains threads known as frotte. Common types of Novelty Yarns: Bouclé: Loopy and bumpy. Manufactured By a solution in forced through very … Basic structure of knit fabrics Knitted fabrics are an alternative to the woven or loom fabrics. of or pertaining to novelties as articles of trade: novelty goods; novelty items. The difference between these two types of thread derives from differences in the production process. Boucle yarns are found in both woven and knit fabrics that are often called boucle fabrics. The twist of the effect strand is usually in the same direction as the twist that holds the effect and core strands; the binder strand is usually twisted in the opposite direction. Satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns. The simplest among the fancy yarns, marl yarn is made by twisting two different-coloured yarns in a doubling process. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being to produce enhanced esthetic and fashionable impressions.4,7,15 Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. or its licensors or contributors. Nevertheless, the number of design variants of threads created from various types of fancy thread is infinite. Apart from these, there are many other novelty yarns like Chenille, Flake, metallic and textured yarns. However, they are also characterized by more flexibility, which is very important for knitting purposes. 9.6c typically has a fine strand spiraling around a soft and bulky strand. Sublime Stitches Part 2: Basic Embroidery Stitches In the Spring 2016 issue of Spin Off, Kate Larson shared tips for embroidering with your handspun yarns. R.A. Angelova, in Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, 2010, The commercial significance of fancy yarns increases continuously due to the abundance of possible effects and their aesthetic influence on the look of knitted and woven fabrics. Chenille: Although tricky to knit with, this yarn … Compound fancy yarns can be found in unlimited number of varieties and textures. Figure 9.6a and 9.6b represents two examples of the first type of fancy yarn, namely slub yarns and thick and thin yarns. This is typically controlled by a number of structural factors including the following: the size of the effect strand, the configuration assumed by the effect strand (wavy, looped, snarled, etc. The twisting of the core and the effect component is done during the first stage. Today, yarn spinning or production is a highly advanced technology that enables the engineering of different yarn structures having specifically desired properties suited for particular end use applications. Fancy yarns are invariably used to create fashion fabrics. They are as follows: 1. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. https://fibres2fabrics.blogspot.com/2013/01/construction-of-knit-fabric.html Novelty Yarns: Novelty yarns are made primarily for their appearance. Bias: the diagonal or cross grain of a woven fabric. Textile - Textile - Classification based on use: Almost any textile yarn can be used to produce such interlaced fabrics as woven and knitted types. The manufacturing cost that may be added as a result of using these accessories is largely counterbalanced by many other factors that can indeed result in a net cost reduction. In a slash yarn, the enlarged area is longer and thinner than in a nub yarn. 13.4. ASTM defines a fancy yarn as a yarn that differs significantly from the normal appearance of single or plied yarns due to the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during its formation. El Mogahzy, in Engineering Textiles, 2009. Miss. The core and the effect components are not twisted in the hollow spindle or have very small twist, compared to the twist of the filament around them (Gong et al. Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves 9.6C–J are listed in the order of their prominence if they are visualized side by side in a piece of fabric. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. The fancy or effect 3. Download : Download full-size image; FIGURE 8.8. Blending of regular polyester fibres with cationic dyeable polyester can be used to get attractive colours, contrast and fancy effects. E. batten. Chenille: Velvety and smooth, can be tricky to knit with. Novelty definition, state or quality of being novel, new, or unique; newness: the novelty of a new job. Chenille yarns are also used in knit fabrics to make bulky sweater knits. Video Lesson: Double-Faced Twill. May 26, 2019 - Explore Leslie Carey's board "novelty yarns", followed by 153 people on Pinterest. In this way, we obtain natural wavy thread. Well you're in luck, because here they come. All the yarns listed may be found in any fiber. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being to produce enhanced esthetic and fashionable impressions. Such ring-spinning machines are in operation all around the world. Effect of Yarn Twist Direction and Woven Design on Certain Novelty Fabrics from Cotton/Polyester Trilobal Filament 3-ply Yarn ... because of the loose structure of the sateen weaves. knit - basic stitch; wales = front, courses = back 2. purl - reverse of knit stitch courses = front, wales = back 3. miss - float stitch used to create color effects 4. tuck - elongated skipped stitch that creates holes in fabric; used to create lacy, textural design effects. Pinter has developed a small ring-spinning machine – ‘Merlin’ – with six or 48 spindles that allow it to work with a range of fibres to produce all types of special yarns and their combinations: slub (multi-count and multi-twist), core spun, devore and double rove yarns. One of the most popular and well-known fancy yarns is slub yarn which has been used in various types of apparel such as suits and shirts. The boucle loop has a very clear shape, which is regular along the whole length of this fancy thread. B. harness. For many years the main spinning systems could be given as woollen, worsted and cotton, and these systems gave rise to the woollen, worsted and cotton industries. These yarns are used to make discreet pinstripes in men’s suiting or to produce a subtly and irregularly patterned knitted fabric with a relatively simple fabric construction. UN-2 Under intense pressure from the textile industry in the United States, the NAFTA agreement however ushered in a novelty in rules of origin, the so-called “ Yarn Forward” rule. In woven fabrics, the yarns may be laid so that all the tufts lie on one side of the fabric or so that some tufts appear on both the face and the back. In Chapter 3, a number of important business and marketing issues related to product development were discussed. Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply; two single yarns twisted together would form a 2-ply yarn. Crepe Fabrics Crepe weave fabrics is special novelty fabrics from basic weaves may be defined as fabrics characterized by a crinkled, pebbly surface. The core strand in loop yarns is usually coarser and heavier than in boucle yarns. In both yarns, the effect strand is twisted around the core strand, but ratiné yarns are usually larger and wavier than gimp yarns due to a larger effect strand. Chenille yarns are usually made from cotton, wool, rayon or polyester and are used in fabrics that are soft and velvety. For details: Submit Article. It has many desirable fibre properties making it an important fibre for textile applications. These yarns are providing us with a huge variety of surface ornamented fabrics at a low cost. in the manufacturing of pillar stitch warp knit fabrics or in the introduction of weft thread as a pile. The wrapping of the two components (core and effect) by the filament to create a fasciated structure leads to the result that most of the elements in the fancy yarn stay parallel. These fabrics are essentially tufted and they are often used for bathrobes and bedspreads. Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, wrap spinning, Air-jet spinning etc. This is typically controlled by a number of structural factors including the size of the effect strand, the configuration assumed by the effect strand (wavy, looped, snarled, etc.) Figure 8.8 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward, except in the differing lengths of the two yarns involved, and is very similar to the structure of a marl yarn. 2. In the simplest weaving arrangement, alternate warp yarns are over or under the shuttle as it moves in one direction and the warp yarn positions are reversed for the return stroke of the shuttle. Knitted fabrics results wrinkle-free and ease-of-care garments with better form fitting and comfort. 2. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs, produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and synthetic yarns with varying thickness introduced during production. It is important to point out that although interest in classical solutions for the production of smooth fancy threads is constant, it has a tendency to decline unless new interesting solutions for the structure of such threads are developed. Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric; i.e., following adjacent columns, or wales, of knitting, rather than a single row, or course.For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting. Novelty yarns, typically made of two or more stands, are produced to provide decorative surface effects. The basic structure of a gimp yarn is illustrated in Figure-6 . In: Journal of Thermoplastic Composite Materials 17 (2004), No. Novelty yarns are usually uneven is size, varied in color or modified appearance by their formation. ScienceDirect ® is a registered trademark of Elsevier B.V. ScienceDirect ® is a registered trademark of Elsevier B.V. URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845697570500040, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845699307500013, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845690489500090, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780081024881000095, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845693725500012, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845694449500139, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845699314000088, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781855735736500060, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845694449500073, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780857091086500016, Types and properties of fibres and yarns used in weaving, Structure and types of yarn for textile product design, Types and suitability of yarns for knitting, An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase, It is possible to produce multi-count and multi-twist yarns with independent servo drives to the drafting rollers, by varying the main draft and front roller speed respectively. It is subjected to the thermal-stabilization process and after this to rowing. Structure of Cotton Fiber: Cotton, the seed hair of plants of the genus Gossypium, is the purest form of cellulose readily available in nature. Novelty, Speciality & Fancy Knitting & Crochet Yarn For fun, creative projects bursting with character, jump into our pool of joyous novelty, speciality and fancy knitting and crochet yarns. The core thread forms the base of the structure onto which the effect thread produces the geometrical shape or profile of the effect, which can be loops, knops, snarls, etc. It is possible to produce multi-count and multi-twist yarns with independent servo drives to the drafting rollers, by varying the main draft and front roller speed respectively. A deliberate difference in length, denier, cross-section and modulus of component fibres can be exploited to position them at predetermined zones of the yarn cross-section, with short and coarse fibres occupying the yarn surface. By mechanically assembly or twisting of staple fibers together spun yarns are made.

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